Flowing Waters: March 2024 Adventures in Nova Scotia
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March whispered secrets of a hidden gem. Read on to uncover its charm…
16, March 2024 – Middleton Nictaux Loop, Middleton ( Region: Annapolis Valley)
March 2024 Adventures in Nova Scotia Log:
This past weekend, I embarked on a journey to explore Nova Scotia’s natural beauty. Our main adventure was a hike on the scenic Middleton Nictaux Loop, a 3.3 km trail that winds through peaceful back roads and offers stunning natural scenery. We started our day at Riverside Park, a lovely spot right next to the trailhead.
A Highlight of the Day:
While the entire Middleton Nictaux Loop was a delight, one particular highlight was crossing a charming rustic bridge along the path. It was a picturesque moment that truly captured the essence of Nova Scotia’s natural charm.
Lessons Learned:
Sometimes, the best discoveries happen unexpectedly! During our journey home from the loop, we encountered a detour due to an accident. Instead of getting frustrated, we decided to embrace the surprise and ended up in Bridgewater, home to one of only two Arby’s in the entire province! This unplanned stop turned into a delicious treat and a reminder to always be open to unexpected adventures.
Interesting Facts:
Did you know? The parking are for the Middleton Nictaux Loop is the parking area for Riverside Park. This hidden gem boasts 70 red maple trees which were planted in the shape of a heart in 2001. While we didn’t get to see them fully leafed out this time, it’s definitely a sight I’m eager to witness in the fall.
Additionally, we learned about the unique architectural feature of Lunenburg – the “Lunenburg Bumps”. These are not bumps on the land at all, but rather the nickname for the distinctive five-sided dormers that protrude from the roofs of many Lunenburg houses. They are a charming and historical element of the town’s architecture.
READ MORE OF MY ADVENTURES>> link to the previous month’s journal
23, March 2024- Polly Cove, Peggys Cove Preservation Area ( Region: South Shore)
March 2024 Adventures in Nova Scotia Log:
The day was overcast but we were determined to walk this trail that turns out not many people have heard of, not even locals. Using the All Trails directions helped because the trailhead was not obvious but there were a few parking spots there as well as another few spots across the street.
We set out and right away there was a sign letting us know that the building foundation not too far in was actually a hotel that was never finished and not a bunker, like rumours online had stated. The path down was pretty obvious, at least to that hotel building. We could have stopped here if all we wanted was a spectacular view but we wanted to test our endurance in this wonderful granite landscape so we continued.
At least we tried, we had to pull the All Trails map out that I had downloaded (thank goodness) we found the path, kinda leading out to the rocks and meandered along the rocks referring to the map often. Eventually figuring out that we had to just keep heading out fairly straight until the end.
It was a little wet on the non-rock parts, but we tip-toed through, went up and down over the rocks and finally got to a stunning view. We took a little break here and decided not to go down to the full extent that was suggested on the trail map. On the way back it was a little more challenging as we were walking closer to the coast, not all the way down though. This lead us through some steeper rocks and smaller paths.
Again referring often to the All Trails map we finally found the steep way back up to the hotel foundation. Catching our breath it was time to move onto the shorter easier loop but we were so tired and couldn’t find that path exactly so we never did add the distance. It had already been a lot longer than anticipated so we started for our vehicle. Of course, we knew from earlier that you could see Peggys Point Lighthouse from this side and couldn’t resist walking straight out on those rocks to grab some photos.
A Highlight of the Day:
Being able to see the famous Peggys Cove and its lighthouse from a different angle than most people get to see it was so exciting. Things like this make you feel so special and of course like a true local.
Lessons Learned:
As with a lot of my lessons, this one centred around trying something new, terrain that I was unsteady on. I could have just went back the way we came and it would have been fine. I would have seen similar things but I wanted to grow and decided I needed to tackle this. Working through some crazy (to me at least) footing spots and making it up a steep hill at the end really boosted my confidence.
Interesting Facts:
- Polly’s Cove is rocky like a giant’s backyard! The rocks are super old, millions of years old, and were smoothed by glaciers that used to be there. Some of these rocks are just balancing there like a person placed them but they have been there forever like this.
- Did you know Polly Cove Trail is actually three coves in one? Explore Peggys Cove, Polly Cove, and Burns Cove, each with a slightly different view of the ocean.
- Polly’s Cove is part of the Peggy’s Cove Preservation Area, which means it’s a special place to protect plants and animals that live there. Remember to stay on the trails and be gentle with nature!
28, March 2024 –
1. Baxter’s Harbour Falls, Baxters Harbour
2. Blackhole Falls (attempted)
( Region: Annapolis Valley & Bay of Fundy)
March 2024 Adventures in Nova Scotia Log:
Determined to see Baxter’s Harbour Falls we drove out this way even though it was calling for rain off and on. The next number of weekends were going to be busy and so this was the only time we would get in a while to get here. I had planned around the tide times and we went fairly early in the morning to be sure to be there at low tide.
Upon getting to the area at first we took a wrong turn because the road down to the falls was steep and looked like a driveway. Once we finally got to the parking area, which was big enough for a few cars we saw Baxters Harbour Falls right away. I was thrilled we could see it right from the parking area whether it was low or high tide. This means that it is an accessible fall for any ability and no need to tide plan after all.
However because we tide planned we were able to walk on the ocean floor right up to the fall. But the rain did pick up here and even though I had a rain poncho which I put on it was starting to get a little miserable so we didn’t explore any further. Next time we do want to get out by the flower pot islands as they reminded me of mini Hopewell rocks (New Brunswick).
Of course I do my research and knew there was another fall close by so we headed down the road about 5 minutes following all trails directions and eventually found the trailhead to Blackhole Falls. It is on the bend of the road and there is a few spots to pull off the quiet road to park.
Getting out and starting down this path the rain seemed to clear up and we were so happy, just praying it would last all the way. Not too long down the path, (literally down the hill as this path went) we encountered so much runoff water that the path was practically a waterfall itself. This swamped the way and though we tried and gave it a real effort, there was just no way we could make it all the way to these falls. Another trip will be in order at a later date.
A Highlight of the Day:
We ran into a local at the Blackhole Falls Trail on the way back to the car and stopped an talked for a moment. We gleaned some great information that there is actually a total of 5 falls from Baxters Harbour Falls to Blackhole Falls. Now we need to come back on a drier day at low tide and see how many we can find. I also love talking to locals in that very area, this is exactly how you find those hidden gems and local treasures that very few know about.
Lessons Learned:
Some adventures just don’t go as planned. Even though we drove a bit of distance to get to these falls the rainy season had other plans for us. However, I did continue working on my footing comfort and hopped some rocks in the pop-up river. This continued to build my confidence for more difficult trails and situations that may come up at anytime.
Interesting Facts:
- The waterfall in all its glory is best viewed at low tide, when the ocean recedes and allows the freshwater stream to cascade over the cliffs.
- The falls are not very high, but they are wide and create a beautiful scene, especially when surrounded by the rugged Nova Scotia coastline.
- Visitors can walk down to the beach at low tide to get a closer look at the falls and explore the rock formations around them.
- Black Hole Falls is viewable from above anytime, but if you go at low tide you can make your way down the steep hill to the bottom and have a second vantage point.
READ MORE OF MY ADVENTURES>> Wintery Landscapes: February 2024 Adventures in Nova Scotia
30, March 2024- Region: Yarmouth & Acadian Shore
March 2024 Adventures in Nova Scotia Log:
Easter weekend of 2024 my sister and I set out to explore the Yarmouth Area, taking in some of the Acadian Shore along the way. We visited many places long the way and they are as follows
- St. Matthews Anglican Church: We were trying to find the Weymouth Falls Waterfall. There was very little information online and the directions led us here to go in behind this church. The ground was still very wet from the spring melt and recent rains so this was a no-go.
- Gates Lane Trail: We went around to the trail that the directions originally went down to find these falls. It was a nice walk along the river here but when the path forced us through the trees we could no longer continue because the ground was just to wet. The scenery here and bridge at the parking was quite beautiful. Note that this bridge was closed and seemed pretty permanent.
- The Sissiboo Story Book Trail: This was discovered as I wanted to go back into Weymouth to grab a photo of this cute town from the top of the hill. We turned into the parking lot of this trail and decided to check it out. We weren’t disappointed, it was about 1.2km there and back and had several interpretive panels leading to a spectacular view at the end. It is a great spot for families with young children because it had a few spots with play equipment as well as several benches and picnic tables and gazebos along the path. One surprise awaits in the trees, let me know if you find what I am talking about.
- View of Weymouth: From the top of the hill going towards Yarmouth, the view of this town is at it best.
- Sissiboo Landing: At the bottom of the hill was a welcome centre. While it was closed there was several interpretive panels talking about the importance of Weymouth. There was so many that we didn’t get to read them all because we still had a lot to do this day.
- St. Benoni Waterfalls: This hidden fall was on some back roads just past Meteghan. You park on the road and it is literally just a few steps down into the forest. The water levels were very high so it was flowing nicely. It is hard to get a really good vantage point but it is a waterfall that not many people know about.
- Yarmouth: Our destination for the trip.
- Sip Cafe Yarmouth: We needed to grab some lunch before getting to late. The first place we had planned on stopping on the way in Meteghan, a farmers market, ended up being closed. Something that had changed on their website that day or the day before because I did look it up and it seemed like they would be open. At first we called Old World Bakery in Yarmouth after googling where to eat and stopped in there but their menu and offerings were not really what we were looking for. We doubled back to another cafe that we passed from where we had parked. This was the Sip Cafe. We didn’t have may other options and while it was a little more expensive than we had budgeted we did enjoy our sandwich. We each got a second sandwich for our drive home the next day as well.
- Frost Park: This park is named after a citizen from Yarmouth that eventually became the president of the Bank of Nova Scotia. Even though it wasn’t in full bloom yet it was a quaint park and offered a nice view of the harbour as well as beside the picturesque city hall.
- Yarmouth Black Soldiers Memorial: We still had some time to kill and saw that there was a memorial across from Frost Park. We wandered over and found this Memorial to the Black Soldiers of World War 1.
- Lost to the Sea Memorial: This memorial was at the bottom of Frost Park, near where we parked. It commemorates all those who have lost their lives at sea, something that still happens to this day. While not as often, fishing is a dangerous job, but one that is still a job for many in the Maritimes.
- Yarmouth County Museum and Archives: This is the one place we had a time we had to get to. I absolutely love museums and many are not open all year. This one is open 5 days of the week but only from 2pm to 5pm. Without knowing how big it was we wanted to get there right at open to ensure we had time to take our time and learn as much as possible. We were absolutely impressed with the artifact and displays in this museum. It has over 20,000 artifacts ranging from Mi’kmaq and Viking times right up to present day. They even have some fun games through out the museum making it interactive and fun to learn.
- Tru by Hilton Yarmouth: We were very happy to have time to check into our hotel before supper. While it would have been nice to stay at a non chain, it just isn’t tourist season yet and we settled on this one based on price, breakfast and the pool of course. The room was very clean, very safe feeling atmosphere and comfortable sleep. We enjoyed the pool later after getting back from dinner and even though it was filled with kids because it was the Easter weekend that was okay we managed to have fun anyway. They do have waterslide, although I couldn’t go down due to weight restrictions my sister did and she had a blast.
- Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant & Brewery: I had eaten here before and knew it was delicious, it was also a place that I knew I could try out a lobster roll that Nova Scotia is so famous for. I started with a cup of fish chowder and it wasn’t as good as I was hoping it to be. I had just tried some a few weeks prior at Acadian Fish and Chips in Hammonds Plains and that one was so flavourful and like heaven in your mouth. The one here at Rudder’s unfortunately just didn’t stand up to it.
Onto the main course, I opted for the warm lobster roll on the recommendation of the waitress. She said that the cold lobster roll is common everywhere, including outside of Nova Scotia, but this was one that was invented by a local lady and is served on mainland Nova Scotia in many places now. It was quite good I will admit, however these dishes are always expensive. I recommend trying it once while in Nova Scoita but there are many other dishes to try that are delicious and more friendly to the wallet. This restaurant is also a micro brewery so I tried their raspberry pale ale. I am not a beer person these days but it was quite good and next time I will opt for the sample platter that I didn’t notice to share with my sister (something she suggested as she wasn’t interested in one to herself). - Sandford Draw Bridge: The main event, the one place I wanted to get to no matter what else happened on this trip. We were suppose to get to this bridge earlier in the day but with our impromptu discoveries it was pushed to later when we had time. Finishing dinner earlier than expected we popped out to Sandford and experience this bridge. It is the smallest working drawbirdge in the world. One thing to note is it is very steep!
We both walked over it and back, but it was nerve wracking. To note on this one, there is not signs here, no interpretive panels, it is literally in a working fishery area. Be respectful of the fishermen and women. I was so glad that we did end up here later because it put us at this picturesque place at sunset. We drove to the end of the driveway of the fishery and stopped at the beach to watch the sun go down. This had to be one of the most spectacular sunsets we had seen. We left slightly before the sun was all they way down and came across on the other side of the fishery some other people pulled over enjoying Mother Nature’s nightly show.
A Highlight of the Day:
Finding the Sissiboo Storybook Trail had to be one of the highlights of this day. I am not one to take a lot of time out of my itinerary, but with enough of these road trips now I have learned that you need to make room and shuffle things if need be to discover things not found in the guide books. Afterall that is my whole philosophy I share with you all and is how I find the hidden gems to let you know about.
Lessons Learned:
Hand in hand with the highlight is that it is okay to shuffle your itinerary around. By making room for a new discovery, we ended up at my must-see spot at a magical time of day that we otherwise would have missed.
Interesting Facts:
- Yarmouth Black Soldiers Memorial: Did you know that Black Nova Scotians played a big role in World War 1? This memorial honours the bravery and sacrifice, of approximately 800 personnel who served in this segregated battalion.
- Sandford Draw Bridge: This bridge is a marvel of engineering! It’s the smallest working drawbridge in Nova Scotia, giving passage to the fishing boats to the inner harbour to keep them safe in storms.
- Weymouth, Nova Scotia was home to one of the world’s greatest boxers, Sam Langford (1886–1956). Even though he was never officially crowned World Champion, he did hold titles from England, Spain and Mexico.
31, March 2024 – Region: Yarmouth & Acadian Shore
Month Year Adventures in Nova Scotia Log:
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A Highlight of the Day:
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Lessons Learned:
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Interesting Facts:
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